Photography by Willy Vanderperre
Styling by Olivier Rizzo
Hair & Make-up by Peter Philips
Hair Colouring by Tom Malongre
Assisted by Annemie Meyers
Models: Chloe at Vision & Robbie
Special thanks to Stephen Sprouse, Pia Versele, Gerrit Bruloot, Marian Eggers and Raf Simons.
___ ‘Heroes’ : The Inspiration Issue
Guest edited by Raf Simons
To be HONEST- I cannot understand the Concept behind this Resort 2011 collection- Strictly Being an avid Follower of Ghesquieres from the Beginning of his Initial Hiring at Balenciaga up and til now- I've noticed that My Complete Adoration and LOVE for him has slghtly dwindled- From the S/S Collection 2009- which I completely passed by-
Noticing briefly the 'DYNASTY' themed 2009 F/W Collection with that ICONIC silk Pleated Dress- truly to die for-(even if it does take two people to actually dress you in it !!!) Now 2010 S/S Collection- I must EXCLAIM 'I did not even notice it'!!- no ooooohs or aaahhs- I was at a complete loss
We are now Approaching F/W 2010 with its Newspaper Print and Half Fur Jackets- Is it just ME!!! But truly it doesn't have the Genius look of NICHOLAS X. A friend of mine explained to me His theory 'Well he has so many People Designing and working for him- that they just YES to him now on all his DESIGNS' And you know What? That Rings so true!!! OH MR.GHESQUIERE LIGHT MY FIRE- (Cliche though it may seem)- I THINK I MAY look Forward to S/S 2011!With a Little Sparkle in my EyeX
This BALENCIAGA campaign Provokes the imagination to movement and freedom- The Fluid Format (that continues in following Ad Campaigns) of several models juxtacomposed in one Picture. I love the BEAUTY of the Black and White Silhouettes designed by Ghesquiere- photographed by Davis Sims to have the feeling that they're there but yet, just not quite in your Grasp......
How many Collections have you designed?Which was your Favorite?and Why?
I designed three collections. “Severance” is womanswear collection, inspired mostly on Enki Bilal’s futuristic and dark comic – book world, which gave me infinite source of ideas not only for the form, but for the mood, atmosphere and it put my attention into classic men wardrobe . “Primordial” was my first experience with menswear. I was amazed with drawings and projects of the American architect Lebbeus Woods. His graphic line, the way he divides the space, strong form were the key points for my collection, as well as the contrast between sharp cut of the clothes and soft – still masculine – drapery I’ve decided to introduce. “Viduatus” is my last womenswear collection based strongly on the concept of the widow, Widowhood is combined with the strong character of ‘ Queen Margot’, from Patrice Chereau ’s movie. Her blood stained dress is translated into the ‘Red’ print, her clothes from the époque, became the starting point for the form and volume development. So there’s the emphasis on the narrow waistline and the shoulder variations, the soft and voluminous drapery versus the strong, sharp cut. The presence of the veils and the color ‘black’ are not only the key reference points; as the collection evolves from its darker, heavier , covered silhouette into the more lighter, sheerer, almost bare silhouette, we are presented with the different stages of the mourning period. Hair is the crucial symbol of the collection. reflected in the vibrant prints as well as in the individual jewelry pieces.
Whats your Favorite Colour/Fabric to work with? and why?
I like the texture and reflection of the fabric, what means that I like to work with matt and shine, interesting surfaces of the fabric, usually in colour black, also white, different gtones of greys, but not always. I don’t limit myself to this colour scheme. I like silk jersey for drapery, looseness and the way it embarces the silhouette. Many times I work with fabrics that allow me to achieve sharp cut and are more constructed, like wools and cottons.
What is it about Fashion Designing that gives you Pleasure?
For me it’s amazing to see your own creations alive, existing, being made. The whole process of arranging the new atmosphere within which my idea becomes complete, new mood, new looks, designs, attitudes – all that and of course the final product, which is the collection give me satisfaction and joy.
What is Your Philosophy about Designing???
Designing comes from inner need. I do it naturally and I don’t have any particular rules imposed. I don’t force anything and I design things I like and find strong, interesting to wear. I suppose that could be my philosophy about designing.
What inspires you to create?or who?
I design and photograph to express myself. One Portuguese writer Fernando Pessoa said – that if he writes what he feels is only to diminish the fever of his emotions. I feel alike. I need to create. I need to comment on what I go through, what I experience, what happened in the past, what was and is important for me. That’s why I am creating.
What kind of Woman do you design for? or Man
I am always interested in what I would like to wear. My designs reflect what I love to wear , what I would like to see on a strong, confident, bit punky woman, who’s clear with her likes and dislikes, decided and determined. Of course all those aspects become more exaggerated in my designs, sometimes they go to the extremes, showing the ‘ideal’ type of woman. The same relates to Man.
How would you Describe your Own Personal Style?
Sharp, graphical cut. Contrast. Bit dark, edgy, punky.
Who would be your Ultimate Client??
Certainly the person who would wear my designs with confidence, pleasure and sense of awareness.
What is your best Personality Trait?
I am extremely stubborn, for me it’s the best personality trait, because it allows me to keep on. I wouldn’t be where I am now without being so badly stubborn, and that is maybe not so positive for others./
and your worst? I am unforgiving, that is the worst.
What are your Hopes? And Fears??For yourself as a Designer....
I hope that design would be more appreciated as a craft and people would decide to spend money on it, as for a good print or painting, that they would be more confident and brave to wear something else than what we see on the street. I hope people would care more about design, clothes. I am afraid as a young designer , that with different limitations I have(financial for example) , I am too fragile to survive in this huge fashion machine, and there must occur many factors and some luck of course for young designer to be able to carry on.
Which Fashion Designer would you Compare Yourself to???and Why???
It is very difficult for me to compare myself to a style of any fashion designer. I guess there are many elements that are very alike but I can’t really judge it myself.
I LOVE...watermelon, music and photography......??
XXTROP BEAUXXXXX GIVENCHY/ RICCARDO TISCI at his best- absoulutely an amazing early collection that pretty much Launched his Career with GIVENCHY.The Ad Campaign that made many a Woman Desire the 'GIVENCHY'look.LARA STONE just Totally looking FABULOUS- One of TISCIS most sought after Collections from the High Leather Boots to the STUDDED GOLD Jackets- So ICONIC and well JUST SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL-
MISS FRENCH FASHIONISTA CANNOT DECIDE......C'EST TROP BEAU- Mmmm-CHOISI-C'EST TROP DIFFICILES- J'AIMES CA et CA et VOILA Okay to be Honest BALMAIN is JUST THE THING for me-it has the FRENCHNESS-the CHICNESS-the PUNKNESS(80'S)- Finally the allure of the Collection is so Feminine with the added Class that makes the Pieces Actually Wearable!!! There are Four Pieces that do it For me-
note***********LES PRIXS!!!!*******the coat is a Pic from tz.X ALORS VOILA LE 'SHOW' PRE-COLLECTION BALMAIN